Anthony Bourdain's Layover in Paris

Paris was the destination de la semaine last night on the Layover, now in its second season on the Travel Channel. Obviously I must be somewhat masochistic to feel such eagerness for watching Tony wine and dine around a city that I partially call home, and yet am not sure to visit for some time. But really, I would rather call it nostalgia and/or anticipation for my next visit.

Pont Alexandre III

Our favorite host, through whom we vicariously live an amazing traveler's life unconcerned with costs and calories, galavanted around the usual suspect neighborhoods of the Marais, Montmartre and the 6th arrondissement. He sprung into various Parisian hot spots, met with French foodies, and was served by renowned chefs. He elaborated on how the culinary scene has transformed in France, and how, as in so many other leading cities, the days of the white tablecloths are gone to be replaced by seasonally-driven, locally-sourced, trend-conscious tasting menus banged out of a small kitchen by a slightly innovative 20 or 30-something year old. I could have asked just about any food-inclined person what Anthony Bourdain would accomplish on his Paris show, and I would have gathered about the same answers. How does one come up with a fresh perspective on Paris, a city known and loved even by those who have never set foot on its cobblestone streets? Will there ever be much more to say about such an established cultural mecca, one that nobody actually wants to see change? Clearly this was a challenge for the production team: the Paris theme has been done to death, and yet it must be done. So what did Mr. Bourdain rant about last night, in an attempt to say something new about the City of Lights?

Don't go see the Eiffel Tower. Just don't. It's not worth it. The Louvre? The Arc de Triomphe? Meh. Stop. Stop and slow down.

And this is actually what I tell people too, when they ask me what they should do while in Paris. If there are things on your bucket list that you must do, that you would beat yourself up about on the plane ride home should you bypass them, by all means go. But keep this list to a minimum. The real charm of Paris is in its crooked streets you will inevitably get lost on, the cheeky graffiti on the side of several hundred-year-old building, the sound of the evening news coming from the open window of a ground-floor apartment. You have to invite surprise, even call to it, in a city like Paris where it is all too easy to follow a hackneyed itinerary. Set the guidebook down, and start walking. Turn right, then go straight, then take a slight left. Stop in a café. Repeat. Because Paris really will surprise you. You just can't be standing in line for the Eiffel Tower.

Photos from my own wanderings in Paris.

And don't forget the sacred apéro hour, a celebratory transition from day to night. And definitely get a Berthillon ice cream cone.

Berthillon Cones - Cassis (blackcurrant) and Nougat.

For the guide and pictures for this week's The Layover in Paris, check the Travel Channel link, here.